Having visited Galeri Rumah Lat, we went to Pekan Papan. Thanks to this article, we were inspired! Though Pekan Papan had been on our wishlist, this visit was unplanned. On our way back, at a traffic light, we saw a signboard on the left: Pekan Papan 7 KM. Just 7 KM? We decided to go.
Pekan Papan, a small town in Perak, has a rich history that has sadly faded into obscurity. Once a bustling mining centre, it declined due to historical events and environmental issues.
Papan’s history dates back to the 1700s. It began as a lumber town, attracting Malay and Chinese timber workers. In the mid-1800s, the discovery of alluvial tin deposits led to a mining boom.
Following the Perak War and the assassination of J.W.W. Birch, the first British Resident of Perak in 1875, the British granted exclusive mining rights in Papan to Raja Asal, a Malay-Mandailing chief. The Mandailings, originally from Sumatra, had migrated to Peninsular Malaya in the 1820s to escape the Padri War. After Raja Asal’s death, his nephew, Raja Bilah, took over.
Under Raja Bilah’s leadership, the Mandailings partnered with Hew Ah Ang’s Hakka Chinese group to develop Papan’s mining industry. With advanced machinery, the town thrived. This attracted diverse ethnic communities. However, conflicts between the Hakka-led Ghee Hin and the Cantonese-led Hai San secret societies led to violent clashes, culminating in the Papan Riots of 1887.
From the early 1900s to 1960, Papan played a key role in Dr Sun Yat Sen’s revolutionary efforts in China. During World War II, it became a refuge for displaced civilians and a base for the Malayan People’s Anti-Japanese Army (MPAJA). After the war, the surrounding jungles sheltered communist guerrillas.
Sybil Kathigasu, a local war hero, operated a clinic in one of Papan’s pre-war shophouses. She and her husband, Dr Abdon, provided medical aid to MPAJA fighters during World War II. The forested outskirts of Papan served as a hideout for these resistance fighters.
Sybil’s bravery earned her the second-highest British George Medal, making her the only Malayan woman to receive this honour. Today, her clinic stands as a memorial, its facade covered with old newspaper clippings about her.
Papan today is a shadow of its former self. Once-bustling streets are nearly empty. Many shophouses and buildings are deteriorating. Despite some preservation efforts, more must be done to ensure the town doesn’t fade away entirely.
Papan’s history reflects Malaysia’s past. A story of rise and decline. Triumph and tragedy. Though its former glory has faded, it remains a unique part of our history and culture, deserving recognition and preservation.
Thank you for reading. After taking 32 pictures, it began to drizzle. Soon, it rained heavily. The sky had been cloudy when we arrived, so it felt fitting. It was eerie. Thankfully, I met two visitors from an NGO called Persatuan Rejuvinasi Pemikiran Masyarakat.
They stood near the entrance of Istana Raja Bilah, unsure whether to go in. I approached them, we talked, and we decided to enter together. Had I not met them, I wouldn’t have gone in alone.
References:
Lubis, A., & Khoo, S. N. (2003). Raja Bilah and the Mandailings in Perak, 1875-1911. http://ci.nii.ac.jp/ncid/BA78070926
Malaysian Ghost Towns Series – Pekan Papan. (2023, June 13). Roam This Way. https://www.roamthisway.com/post/malaysian-ghost-towns-series-pekan-papan
Janet. (2023). Papan: Forgotten Row Of Heritage Shophouses In A Perak Town With A Hidden WWII History. TheSmartLocal Malaysia – Travel, Lifestyle, Culture & Language Guide. https://thesmartlocal.my/papan-perak/
Hamastura, M. (1986). Penempatan kaum mendailing di Perak tengah hubungan di antara kehidupan sosial, senibina dan perancangannya/Hamastura Mahayuddin (Doctoral dissertation, Universiti Teknologi MARA).
