At risk of being forgotten
Malaysia’s cultural heritage is vibrant and diverse. It reflects a mix of ethnicities and traditions. One highlight is its cuisine. Deeply rooted in Malay culture, it showcases the traditions of the largest ethnic group in the country. Malay cuisine offers a wide range of dishes. These include appetisers, soups, main courses, and desserts.
Many traditional Malay desserts are at risk of being forgotten. Younger generations show less interest in these heritage foods. Popular dishes include lemang, ketupat, rendang, wajik, and dodol. Dodol, a sticky and caramel-like treat, has been declared an endangered heritage food in Malaysia.
Traditional and heritage foods
The term traditional food varies by location. It uses local ingredients and cooking methods. These dishes reflect a community’s history and way of life. A country’s diverse cultures create a wide range of traditional foods. Each has its own unique identity and story. In short, traditional food is a special dish that reflects the culture and ethnicity of a specific region.
Heritage foods are defined by their use of specific ingredients, techniques, and utensils, with recipes passed down through generations. In Malaysia, traditional foods play a key role in representing cultural identity. The Malay community, in particular, offers a rich variety of traditional dishes, such as nasi lemak, nasi ayam, laksa, and a wide range of kuih.
Kuih is a traditional Malay cake or dessert. It is a popular food. Kuih symbolises Malay identity and it often comes in two types. Savoury and sweet. These snacks can be chewy, creamy, or sweet. They are made with ingredients like tapioca flour, coconut milk, palm sugar, and glutinous rice. They can be fried, grilled, steamed, or baked. People typically enjoy them during teatime, festivals, and special occasions. You can find kuih at night markets, roadside stalls, cafes, and restaurants.
An endangered heritage kuih, dodol
Dodol is a sweet treat with a chewy, caramel-like texture. Its main ingredients are glutinous rice flour, palm sugar, and coconut milk. Historical records trace dodol’s origins to 1926 in Betawi, now Jakarta, Indonesia, during the Dutch colonial period.
The use of rice in dodol reflects the agrarian roots of the Betawi people. The name dodol means sweetness or confectionery, and there are regional variations. In Thailand, it is called kelamai or gelamai. Similar versions are found across Indonesia and Malaysia.
Preparing dodol the traditional way is a labour-intensive process. It can take up to eight hours. Families, and sometimes neighbours, come together to help. This long, demanding process has made dodol less popular with younger generations.
Different regions have adapted dodol to suit local tastes by adding unique ingredients. In Indonesia, variations include dodol made with durian (dodol durian), jackfruit (dodol nangka), and soursop (dodol sirsak). Other types are named after their regions, like dodol Garut from West Java. Additional flavours include mung bean, yam, tomato, mango, and aloe vera.
Dodol was recognised as an Intangible Heritage Object in 2009 by Jabatan Warisan Negara. It holds cultural significance in Malaysia, especially in the southern states of Negeri Sembilan and Melaka, where it is known as penganan and kelamai. Though deeply rooted in Malay culture, dodol is enjoyed by Malaysians of all backgrounds.
Pictures in this article were taken during our visit to Pahlawan Walk Market in Melaka. This is our go-to place for dodol. We also buy other traditional foods, snacks, and handicrafts there. Parking spaces are quite spacious. There are also plenty of nearby restaurants. We always visit Asam Pedas JR. Delicious, and their food is reasonably priced.
References:
Ismail, N., Ab. Karim, M. S., Che Ishak, F. A., Arsyad, M. M., Karnjamapratum, S., & Sirison, J. (2021). The Malay’s traditional sweet, dodol: a review of the Malaysia’s heritage delicacy alongside with the rendition of neighbouring countries. Journal of Ethnic Foods, 8, 1-13.
Kamaruzaman, M. Y. B., Ab Karim, S., Ishak, F. A. B. C., & Arshad, M. M. B. (2020). The diversity of traditional Malay kuih in Malaysia and its potentials. Journal of Ethnic Foods, 7, 1-11.
Karim, A. A., & Bhat, R. (2012). Eight. The Sticky Science of Malaysian Dodol. In The Kitchen as Laboratory: Reflections on the Science of Food and Cooking (pp. 52-58). Columbia University Press.
– PENGANAN GULA ENAU PRIDE OF THREE GENERATIONS. (2023, April 19). Bextra. https://www.bernama.com/en/bfokus/news.php?lifestyle&id=2182909
Dodol is. . . – Badan Warisan Malaysia (The Heritage of Malaysia Trust) | Facebook. (n.d.). https://www.facebook.com/heritagemalaysia/posts/dodol-is-a-type-of-confectionery-that-has-a-chewy-caramel-like-and-sticky-textur/836724368499912/